Sulfate-free. You’ve probably seen this label on more and more shampoo and conditioner bottles in the past 5 years or so. If you’re a fan of Netflix’s Queer Eye, you’ve probably heard the Fab Five’s Jonathan Van Ness chide the various makeover subjects for using shampoo with sulfate in it.

There is some truth to Van Ness’ admonishings but how much of it is there?

Should we all avoid sulfates in our hair products? 

First, let’s explain what sulfates are. Sulfates are a type of salt called surfactants found in most personal hygiene and household cleaning products. The most well-known types of sulfates are sodium lauryl sulfates, sodium laureth sulfates, and ammonium lauryl sulfates which are the ones most commonly found in shampoos. These surfactants attract oil and water and upon contact with either one, will make foam and deeply clean what they need to clean.

The problem is that they are so effective at cleaning that they suck up all the water and oils present. And this can become a big problem for certain folks. 

When someone uses a shampoo with sulfates, the shampoo will strip all the oils and moisture from their hair. This can make the scalp dry, the hair frizz, and in some cases, cause hair damage. It also causes general skin and eye irritation when it slips down to your face. Now, this product isn’t so dangerous that it causes cancer, thyroid problems, birth defects, etc. (unlike some cosmetic ingredients)

But if you fall under the following three categories, you should be using sulfate-free shampoo to prevent the unpleasant side effects. 

• The first category is folks with sensitive skin, dry skin, or auto-immune skin conditions such as contact dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis. Since these folks already have skin sensitivities, the sulfates can cause skin irritation and dry out the scalp.

• Second, we have folks with wavy, curly, or coily hair. These hair textures are much more porous than straight hair and contact with sulfates will result in frizz and dryness (curls will not pop!)

• Finally, we have folks with color-treated or dyed hair. Sulfates are known to strip away the coloring or dye from hair so if you visit a colorist often, use sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner!